Peter's Pick

2006 d'Arneberg The Stump Jump Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre, McLaren Vale, $12

The quality/value quotient of Chester Osborn's Stump Jump red is one of the many reasons for his nomination as a Winemaker of the Year finalist.  It's a classic southern Rhône GSM blend sourced from the vast array of McLaren Vale vineyards owned or contracted to d'Arenberg.  Clean, fresh flavours of ripe cherry, plum and aniseed dominate with hints of dark chocolate and warm spice.  A red for early drinking: best with sausages or a spicy pizza.


2006 Water Wheel Shiraz, Bendigo, $19

Year after year Peter Cumming delivers a trio of fabulous reds at extraordinarily modest prices, be it his Memsie blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and malbec or his pure varietal cab sav and shiraz.  All show intense fruit flavours and exhibit the Bendigo region's hallmark warm earth and licorice characters.  The 2006 Water Wheel Shiraz has a delicious compote of dark berry flavours, licorice allsorts and sweet spice.  An earthy minerality and fine-grained yet chalky tannins tame any excessive or extroverted behaviour.


2006 Shadowfax Chardonnay, Victoria, $30

This chardonnay is no monster but a slick and stylish multi-regional blend with its heart in Geelong.  It's gracefully supported by grapefruit-flavoured grapes from the Macedon Ranges and given additional character from a splash of Beechworth and Cardinia Ranges fruit.  It's a chardonnay that walks a fine line between generosity and elegance, with lots of stone fruit and pink lady apple favours and a delicious lemon curd character.  Its bright acid finish would easily slice through the richness of a classic lobster thermidor.


2006 Telmo Rodriguez Almuvedre Monastrell, Alicante (Spain), $23

Monastrell is the Spanish name for mourvèdre or mataro - as it was historically known in Australia.  It grows well in the warm regions on the Mediterranean coastline.  Telmo Rodriguez sources his fruit from ancient, low-yielding vines to create a fresh and bright wine (it's untouched by oak) that carries all the variety's classic characters: intense savoury aromas of beef stock, licorice and dried sour cherry.  It's a juicy, chewy red with abundant tannins, which are surprisingly soft and easy on the gums.


2001 Domaine de Chevalier Grand Cru Classé. Pessac Léognan (France), $150

Domaine de Chevalier is a 30-hectare property managed by the Bernard family and an often overlooked château of great quality and value that produces elegant, savoury reds and a dazzling classic Bordeaux blanc.  This red from the much underrated 2001 vintage is a typical interpretation of the chateau's style.  Dense dark berry fruit flavours mingle with hints of cool earth, wood smoke and iodine.  The palate is tightly woven with concentration yet impeccable finesse.  A long, fine sinew of tannins carries the finish.


2005 Henschke Mount Edelstone, Eden Valley, $95

This excellent shiraz from the Henschke clan too often sits in the shadow of its more illustrious sibling Hill of Grace.  But at a fifth of its big brother's price, Mount Edelstone is an absolute bargain and carries all the character and finesse of the relatively cool Eden Valley region.  Savoury in style, its dense, deep dark berry fruit aromas interplay with hints of mocha chocolate, smoky oak and fresh licorice.  The palate has a similar bittersweet character with an incredible intensity and structure.